Hands down, The Endless Summer – a film shot on a shoestring budget, by veteran surfer film maker Bruce Brown – is one of the greatest movies ever made. Not one of the best surfing movies – best movies, period.
It came out when I was 14 – loved it then, love it even more now.
All of my life has been about finding the perfect wave, the one I can ride all the way to the beach. Not a physical wave, but a life wave, a wave of energy love purpose that lifts me up & lets me balance to the best of my ability on its crest, in its curl. The wave is the base, lessons learned form the board, my body brain experience determines how it’s caught it, how well I execute the moves to stay upright, how long the ride lasts.
I’m a veteran of many waves, pasts reconfiguring into an fresh active now; beautiful ones that turned out to be busts & little uglies that delivered the goods. I’ve learned how to read the swells, which ones to pick, how far to go before attempting to get on my feet, to thread the board, to stay standing as it shoots forward & across, sometimes tacking back to let the ride to go forward.
I’ve never surfed waves, not once in my life. But riding life’s waves is what I’m all about, living my own endless summer in search of perfect.